Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts

Saturday, April 12, 2014

Blessing in Disguise

Ever since my first trip to the African continent I have devoured every resource I can get my hands on regarding history, development, policy, economics and all of the other complexities that surround development in general. More recently I’ve spent the last few months (or really since I left Uganda the first time and saw how severe their electrification problem is) filling my brain with numbers about electrification, policy, too many impact assessments of rural electrification projects, microfinance, impact evaluation methodology, and statistics. Without realizing it I approached my research here with a rather aloof and scientific perspective. I poured over my questionnaire to figure out precisely what data I would need to make valuable conclusions about electricity access and economic well-being. But now that I’m here and I’ve spent a good portion of the last week driving through the hilly green western Ugandan countryside to rural areas lacking grid access, I realize that I failed to remember how in your face poverty can become. It’s easy to pour over numbers and theories and get excited about new ideas but sometimes this all becomes irrelevant when you sit in people’s homes and find out precisely how difficult their situation is and how so many people really are stuck in a poverty trap (to quote the book Poor Economics).

Three days of interviews and it’s already started to feel like something I could do in my sleep. I diligently fill in the boxes in my stapled questionnaires, probing when the information I receive seems unclear. But still I find myself startled and saddened. During one interview with a woman who does not have solar energy, I inquired about how much she pays to charge her phone. She told me nothing. When I asked my translator to ask why, he calmly responded that the community helps her because she is in poor health and has no money. She was merely forced to start her business because she could no longer work on her farm. Most of the businesses I have surveyed run a loss every month. Their weekly turnover (if above zero) is often equal to what I might spend on a beer.

My life in Uganda this time around is worlds different than my last Ugandan experience. The region I live in is lush with rich soil that allows even the poorest to subsist off the land. I live in a huge house with a large yard with a lovely older British couple. Even when I run through hilly (and 1400m altitude!) Mbarara I am not (often) greeted by the constant “Mzungu how are you?” that I was during my runs in Moroto. The weather is beyond perfect—sunny and cool. My spotless new office is entirely run by professional and friendly Ugandan staff and powered by solar power although grid connection exists. But in spite of how nearly perfect life is here, I am confronted daily with the realities and limitations that poverty brings. The people I interview (with and without electricity) work extremely long hours only to run mostly unprofitable businesses. Yet there is often no other alternative for them. The income disparity in this country is unavoidably obvious and makes me wonder that perhaps if the income disparity that we have in the US was equally in your face to most people, then we would choose to do something about it.


Although life is not easy for people in the villages and it’s easy for me to sit through the interview brainstorming how their business might be made to be more profitable; these villagers have a much deeper understanding of the natural world than the western world. Unlike Europe and North America where we have created an artificially perfect environment where we can have whatever food we want whenever we want it, regardless of seasons, drought or weather, rural Ugandans have seen climate change (that was caused by our behaviours in the west) affect their daily lives. These Ugandans may not have even finished high school, often may not even be able to read, and unfortunately have little political power. But they are not debating whether climate change is real because the reality of it has changed their livelihoods. The fact that climate change comes up so frequently during my interviews is perhaps even more saddening when I know that my country has indirectly caused this disaster that is now impacting those most unable to cope with it. Sitting in front of people barely able to support their families makes the useless debate and stubborn unwillingness to change in my own country sickening. Although the comfort filled life in the west is certainly easier, I think rural Ugandans are blessed in a way they don’t realize through their intimate knowledge of the seasons, weather patterns, and their dependence on nature and its resources. 

Thursday, December 5, 2013

Present

A few weeks ago I came to a both exciting and frightening realization: every single minute, hour, day of our lives are 100% unique and we will never experience that exact moment again. On the one hand this is an intimidating and frightening thought but on a more positive note it makes one realize how special the present is, even if we may be counting down the hours, days, weeks, months to a seemingly more exciting moment. The concept of living in the present is something we could take a lesson or two from stereotypical African culture. While living in the present there often means meetings starting hours late, perpetual tardiness to work, and the tasks left uncompleted; it also means impromptu visits from friends, stopping all to do lists (I'm still skeptical that the concept of a to do list even exists there), and simply taking the time to chat with people even if it means being late for something. Living in super organized, scheduled, punctual, consistent and efficient Holland where socializing is scheduled months in advance (I am not exaggerating here), being late is frowned upon, completion of tasks is assumed, and holidays are planned practically years in advance has mostly been an easy transition since I also have an obsession with planning and control (in the broad sense). Although in recent years I am lucky to know where I will be living a few months in advance I am still constantly making plans and looking forward to the next adventure.

Approximately a month ago now (where did the time go?) while enduring the grueling exam period that stretches on forever here, I had the astonishing thought to simply stop counting down the days and number of exams left until new things began but to actually sit down and ENJOY the process of studying and the sometimes challenging task of exam taking. This was indeed a revelation since although I thoroughly enjoy the school environment and learning and reading and listening, I am actually quite horrible at sitting down and studying. So far I have managed to survive by constantly changing my study environment and mostly just cramming all the information into my brain the night before an exam (yes, I know this is what everyone says not to do). In spite of my dislike for studying during my first exam this year a thought popped into my head: "I am incredibly lucky to be sitting in this room simply taking this exam!" Shifting my focus from one of just completing everything, to trying to enjoy the moments of studying with the knowledge that I am exceptionally privileged to be able to study and more importantly realizing I will never be in this exact situation again in my life, made for a surprisingly pleasant exam period.

Last year when I wrote my annual year summary I left on the note that perhaps this year would be uncomfortably "stable". While I have spent the whole year theoretically living in the same city, 2013 certainly has brought its share of travels, adventures and surprises. But perhaps more importantly I am starting to become more comfortable with the notion of simply enjoying every moment I have and not stressing about my next plans or destination. In light of enjoying the present and being thankful for all the moments we get (and in the spirit of American Thanksgiving) I leave you with a few things I'm thankful for:

-A lovely visit from the best mother anyone could ask for. We discovered the picturesque and fairy tale like veggie capital (most vegetarian restaurants per capita and even a meat free day at schools) of Europe (Gent, Belgium), wandered through various Dutch cities, and visited a few too many natural food stores.




-A cozy apartment with friendly roommates (even if some of our roommates are perhaps three generations of mice)

-Opportunities for travel (recently: Freiburg, Budapest & Tunisia)







-A healthy body

-The opportunity to study

-Biking as my primary mode of transport

-Being debt free

Back to living in the present---which means writing a 3000 word paper that's due tomorrow and hasn't even been started...

Friday, June 3, 2011

Getting Fancy

Once again I'm bored at work so I decided to make my blog fancy (except really it's not when you compare it to the millions of blogs floating around on the interwebs). So now in case you wonder how you too can travel, you can click on the "Travel Links" page and I have sites posted that I used to fuel my unhealthy travel addiction. So please don't tell me anymore that you are jealous of what I've been able to do. I do feel blessed for the opportunities I've had, but I WANTED this so I found a way to make it happen. Anyone can do the same.

Wednesday, May 25, 2011

The Soul of Seoul

View from the roof of my apartment.
But this could be any old apartment's view. 
Rachel and winter do not get along. Since moving away from mountains and to the cold, sunless, and endless winter of the midwestern United States at the age of nine, I gradually realized that six month winters (which is what Michigan and Indiana have in my opinion) do not suit me. Naively (as I basked in the beauty that is Michigan summer), I thought that a Korean winter would be no big deal. Warmer temperatures, less snow, and a new place. Wrong. Winter sucked here. Perhaps I'm being unfair to Korea because they decided to have the coldest winter in the last thirty years when I showed up, but either way I wasn't impressed. Okay, it was marginally better than the Midwest. We didn't get dumped with massive amounts of snow that is useless since there are no mountains in the Midwest, and the temperatures were slightly warmer comparatively. But, I still had to drag my butt out of my warm bed every morning to make the once easy and enjoyable fifteen minute walk to school in the blustery cold to "deskwarm" (although warm does not in anyway describe my feelings while sitting in a freezing cold school doing nothing for eight hours a day). Needless to say, during these winter months I had little appreciation for the awesomeness that is Seoul. But this post is not about the horrors of winter, instead about Seoul, a city filled with life, culture, art, uniqueness, delicious food, and some semblence of diversity in comparison with the rest of Korea. With each passing day I become increasingly sad about leaving this marvelous city. 

Any street, Korea. 
Stroll down your average Korean street and you will see several things: 노래방s (Noraebang) in every building (directly translated=singing room--kind of like your own private Karaoke room), neon lights, Hyundai cars, coffee (or "copy" in Korean) shops, bars (called hofs in Korean even though "hof is technically a German word), restaurants, and love motels. At first these streets are interesting--wow so many neon lights, oh let's go to a noraebang!, mmmm look at that restaurant (nevermind that there's a nearly identical restaurant two doors down). But after a while it all starts to look the same (making finding your way around a bit difficult). Seoul is not devoid of these generic Korean streets, but Seoul has a vibe that is lacking in the other Korean cities I've visited (or at least a vibe that you have to search hard for). While, it's easy to criticize Korea and their education system for a lack of creativity there IS creativity in this country and lots of it! Introduce my favorite area in Seoul: Hongdae.

Hongdae reminds me of a cooler version of Ann Arbor, MI. Hongdae refers to the area surrounding a university famous for their art and design programs, a fact that is evident by the crowd around Hongdae. Here you can find a more off-beat, hippie crowd. Every Saturday (during warmer weather) there is a "Free Market" (but it's not really free) where local artists come to sell their work. Every week I've gone there are new treasures to be found. In addition to the market Hongdae is filled to the brim with independent coffee shops of all shapes and sizes, boutique clothing stores, art stores, and fun and unique restaurants and bars. Many foreigners are attracted to Hongdae for its buzzing night life. While Hongdae's night life is certainly fun, I think many foreigners overlook the more unique and quirky side of Hongdae. I think I could live in the Hongdae area my whole life and never visit every single cafe. Where the rest of Korea loves their department stores, and American chains, Hongdae keeps the independent shops and creativity afloat and therefore I love it. 

Besides Hongdae there are several reasons Seoul has "captured my soul" (I'm sure I'm the first to come up that clever pun):

1. Mass transit
The Seoul subway system is amazing: efficient, cheap, reliable, and extremely user-friendly even for the dumbest of people (I think anyone). As I continue to look into options for next year I'm starting to panic about losing access to such reliable and affordable mass transit. The subway allows me to be completely independent. I can go virtually anywhere I want within the entire city without the expense, annoyance, and guilt of a car. Because of this luxury I'm doubtful I'll be able to bring myself to move ANYWHERE in the US for a while. 

2. Constant action
I've never visited New York City (it's on my to-do list the next time I'm in the US) but I've heard that like Seoul there is never an end of things to do. I can pick a part of Seoul to visit and likely stumble upon some random outdoor performance, market, or festival. There are an endless number of groups I can join to satisfy my interests: language groups to practice German, swing dance club, volunteer groups and I've barely even scratched the service. 

3. Food
One of the benefits of living in a big city of course is the availibility of a broad range of good food. I can get my Mexican fix (even if it is Midwest quality Mexican food), Indian, Japanese, "Western", Thai, Italian... Although this is the first time I've lived in a legit big city I have been spoiled to always live in semi hip college towns (with the exception of Valpo haha), meaning a fairly ready access to a variety of different cuisines. Unfortunately, this fact has spoiled my taste buds so being forced to eat bland cafeteria food in college was a difficult adjustment for me. I'm happy to have access to good food once again. 

It's still funny for me to think about the Rachel of about five years ago. The Rachel of five years ago probably wouldn't be living in one of the largest cities in the world and enjoying it as much as I do. Perhaps I had done more traveling than the average American (short structured trips to Italy and Germany and Canada of course if that even counts) and my parents had certainly done way more traveling than the average American, but I was still pretty "uncultured", and clueless about a lot of things (although I still probably am). While, I haven't always lived in the "boonies" since my family has always lived in college towns, I had never really experienced a big city until moving to northwest Indiana and being a short train ride away from Chicago. I remember my first train ride to Chicago and simply being amazed at the number of people and the tall buildings. Besides Chicago northwest Indiana was culture shock in itself, moving from the hippie haven of Ann Arbor and spending my childhood in the West. But real change did not happen until traveling to Kenya on a service trip in May 2008. It rocked my perfect little world and gave me the travel bug, an incurable disease that I am still battling today ;). Then my travel rampage began: after a friend scoffed when I said I will never spend another summer in Michigan and would not return there after graduation, I set out to prove him wrong. Spring break to Haiti, two week service trip to Tanzania, summer of research in Germany and gallivanting all over Europe, spring break in Mexico, service trip to Nicaragua, volunteering on a farm in Costa Rica and now Korea. Approximately twenty four (?) countries later, I feel blessed and COMPLETELY changed from the innocent Valpo freshman five years ago. Sometimes I think I've left part of myself in each of the countries I've visited and Korea is no exception. I will miss Seoul immensely and I look forward to three more months of exploring this lively city. 

Biking along the Han with free (of course) bikes
Last word of advice: don't EVER tell me I can't or won't do something, because I have this little problem of enjoying proving people wrong and I don't like people telling me what to do. It's probably my greatest strength and fault. But it did end up getting me halfway around the world :)   

Monday, April 18, 2011

Breaking things down

I'm really good and breaking things into small manageable segments. Perhaps it's my love of math, my excruciatingly boring summer internship four years ago that forced me to break my  eight hour day into slightly more manageable fifteen minute segments, or my OCD running habits. Whatever it is, I have now broken down my remaining months in Korea. Less than two weeks until my next day off. Two short weeks, then three weeks until July. Then two weeks of classes until summer vacation. Then two weeks until Philippines and Bali, then two weeks and bye bye Korea! Craaazy when I break things down into two to three week segments! I am now experiencing a mixture of excitement and sadness about finishing this segment of life.

Living in Korea and perhaps living abroad in general is like a long roller coaster ride. The beginning is filled with lots of quick ups and downs that are super exciting! There are so many new tastes, customs, sights, and people to meet. Then comes the biggest hill in the roller coaster ride. Slowly, slowly you start chugging up the hill and all the things that were once new and exciting have now become boring and obnoxious. Would you stop spitting in public already? I really don't feel like stepping in your phlegm and hearing you hack a loogie every five minutes. But then you reach the top of the hill and you can see the end of the ride. It's all downhill in one dizzying, exhilarating blur. That's where I'm at. I'm trying to frantically take everything in, try everything I haven't tried yet, see as many places as I can, and continue to cultivate the amazing friendships I've made while still seeking to make new random connections and friends, but all this is going by at a frantic high speed (but I seem to always attack life full steam ahead anyway).

My last few weeks have been filled with probably my favorite aspect of traveling and living in new places: meeting people. These past three weeks have allowed me to expand my random connections. Meeting the son of the owner of the number one tortilla company in Korea (as if there's many more than one tortilla company in Korea)? Check. Free tortillas? Working on it. A week ago a friend and I headed south to Gyeongju to run a half marathon and enjoy cherry blossoms. Being the cheapos and curious folks that we are, we once again couchsurfed. A nice Korean professor who was gone for the weekend gave the key to his apartment to two of his students. We stayed in his apartment for two days and were showed around by his friendly and comical students. I don't think I've laughed so much in a long time (which is saying something considering I probably laugh around 50% of the day). One of the students has never had a "foreign friend" before so he was so thrilled to meet my friend and I that he even signed up for facebook to keep in touch with us. Our conversation with these two quirky gents drifted between broken English, and something resembling charades. It still amazes me how relatively easily human beings can understand each other in spite of language differences. I look forward to more adventures with these new friends!

Besides meeting new people I am excited for four more months with my incredible group of friends here, enjoying runs on the color infused streets of Incheon for the next couple weeks as the spring flowers peek out from the metal jungle and human storage units, cramming my brain with as much Korean as I can before I leave and likely forget everything I've learned, and stuffing myself with the deliciousness that is Korean food before it's taken away from me. With all these exciting things to look forward to and the absolutely perfect weather that has finally graced Incheon, I was actually half tempted to stay another year the other day. If I ignore the little part of my life that is "teaching" (if you can actually call what I do teaching) Korean devil children, my life here isn't so bad. Part of me craves being able to stay in the same place for just one more year instead of continuing my life habit of packing and unpacking, saying goodbye and saying hello. But my perpetual antsiness and realization that "teaching" English to Korean children is most certainly NOT my life calling prevents me from sticking around. Instead, in true Rachel fashion I'm on an application rampage. Stability aside in just over four months kimchi will be sadly lacking from my diet and I won't be bowing to every person I meet. Having a home would be nice, but hopping to another new and exciting place would be even nicer.

P.S. I received a wonderful but also heartbreaking compliment from my 5th grade co-teacher the other day. "You are a really good teacher. I really hope you stay in Korea."
My response: "Uhhhh... thank you! I guess I have a lot of thinking to do and decisions to make."

Wednesday, April 6, 2011

How to live like a pauper and still have a good time

Sometimes my existence (both in Korea and elsewhere) isn't that different than that of a homeless person. But unlike a homeless person I made a very conscious decision to live this way. Teaching English in Korea it is very possible to save the majority of your paycheck each month even though in comparison to the engineering salary I could be making my paycheck here is not that much. Let me outline how to save money and still have fun in Korea.

Key for Americans: $1~1000 Korean won

1. Eat Korean food
Even if I didn't love Korean food as much as I do, I would be eating it and shopping in Korean grocery stores. Yes you can get western food here, but why should I pay an arm and a leg for a nasty pizza or hamburger (not that I even ate those things in the States anyway) when I can get delicious and cheap Korean food. Same goes for groceries. I could spend a fortune for a block of cheese or I could get some of the tastiest tofu in the world for less than 1,000 won? Now, like most things I undertake I tend to go overboard on saving money. This means I will eat the SAME thing for a week if it was on sale and because I'm mortally afraid of food going bad and ultimately having to throw something away. My pantry is not chock full of snacks and spices and other random treats. It is the bare bones essentials.

2. Take advantage of free handouts 
Korea is a wonderful place for sample lovers like myself. Take a stroll through the grocery store (with the intention of buying something of course ;) ) and sample the many foods that sweet little Korean ladies are advertizing. If you feel guilty about sampling and not buying don't worry. You simply shop less each time you enter the grocery store so that EVERY single day you have an excuse to enter the grocery store and take advantage of samples. And the best part is that because everything is close in Korea you don't have to worry about wasting gas money (and harming the environment) getting to the grocery store. The only unfortunate part about Korean samples is that there is always someone manning the demo booth. This makes coming back for seconds a bit awkward. I use the samples as my snacks since I generally have three meals a day plus snacks in between.

Besides samples in the grocery store there are always various church groups in public places handing out pamphlets and free stuff, usually tissues and wet wipes. Nevermind that I can't read the pamphlets, I'll take the freebies. Kamsamnida! And this leads me to number 3.

3. Replace items you might normally buy with freebies
I hate buying toilet paper. What an unpleasent thing to waste money on, but unfortunately it's a neccessity. Problem solved though! Use free tissue freebies mentioned in number two as TP! I have only purchased toilet paper twice in Korea because of these lovely free tissues! When I run road races here they also often hand out free tissues and it's usually pretty simple to snag one or two tissue packets. Score! Toilet paper dilemna solved!

4. Buy produce and other food items in a Korean traditional market
Regular supermarket produce is outrageously expensive! BUT on side streets and other areas throughout Korea you can find markets selling produce and other food products for a fraction of the cost. Some of the food I won't touch, but things that aren't super important to be organic I will buy. Check out the dirty dozen list for things you should buy organic. Tofu in the markets is way more delicious and fresh too!

5. Make Korean friends and be friendly with the teachers in your school
Koreans are very generous (and you should be in return). They will usually share whatever scrumptious (and sometimes not so delicious) snacks with you at school and often even send you home with leftovers. I have gotten whole meals this way. Also, if you invite Koreans over to your apartment they usually come bearing food or another practical item (such as paper towels or I've even heard toilet paper). Lastly, when teachers retire at your school it is customary for them to give everyone gifts and they are usually practical gifts. I have received an umbrella and towel!

6. Be a good teacher!
If your students like you there is the potential to get snacks and candy on a regular basis.

7. Shopping
Don't do it! Well... if you must, go to the underground shopping stores where you can find super cheap clothes and shoes. These underground shopping centers can be found near many subway stations in Incheon and Seoul. Edit: Check out the awesome 1,000 won store called Daiso. Unlike "dollar stores" in the States their products are a bit "classier" and SEEM like better quality. 

8. Don't turn on the heater in winter
Well this one all depends on the apartment situation but I got lucky in this aspect. My apartment is on the 7th flour of a thirteen story building. Because of this I can essentially steal warmth from the apartments above, below, and on either side of my apartment. Plus my apartment faces the sun which is unfortunate for sleeping but fortunate for heating. In Korea all apartments are fitted with floor heating. I am happy to say that I only turned on my heater once all winter (and this was in the midst of one of Korea's coldest winters on record). Now I would be lying if I said that I didn't get cold but it was a small price to pay to save money.

Now all these money saving tactics might make it seem like I never have fun (I do in fact save almost 3/4 of my paycheck every month and that includes travel expenses). So here is tip number nine.

9. Don't buy drinks at a bar
If going out for a few drinks is your thing this could get expensive even though drinks are relatively cheap in Korea. Don't buy drinks! Instead bring your own in! Requires a bit of sneaking and a big enough bag to fit the drinks but it's completely doable.

10. Limit eating out
Both when traveling and in Korea limit eating out. Eating out in Korea IS cheap BUT it still can add up if you're not careful about what you order and if you eat out on a regular basis. When traveling if you don't eat out, you WILL save massive amounts of money. Go to a supermarket or convenience store and buy and make your own food. Now I realize that eating local foods is part of the travel experience but don't eat out every single meal. It will break the bank. In Europe I just stole food from breakfast at my hostel to make a simple sandwich for lunch, then out for dinner. Unfortunately in Asia most accomodations don't include breakfast so this tactic does not work so well.

What do I do with the extra money? Pay off my stupid student loan which I am proud to say will be demolished by the end of May! The government is not going to suck interest out of me. And one last tip don't use a credit card unless you can pay in full by the time the bill rolls around. I have a hard time understanding how people fall for this one because interest is so ridiculous if you don't pay up in full.

I won't mention some of my more extreme money saving tactics. Yes, my lifestyle often approaches digging for trash but I'd rather spend my money on travel. Happy saving!

Wednesday, March 9, 2011

6 Month Mark!

Last week marked six months in Korea. It's been full of surprises, challenges, adventures, good friends, and lots of learning and growing. Here are my favorite observations, surprises, experiences, and random thoughts from the past six months:
Oh cheap and abundant avos how I miss you!

-Oats (and pretty much any grain besides rice), avocados, vanilla (and other baking supplies), and proper cheese are difficult and expensive items to find in Korea. BUT, I haven't really missed cheese all that much.

-If you're considering coming to Korea and you're female, don't come single (or at least without an imaginary boyfriend). There are two reasons for this: 1) It is not okay for a person to be single at any point in their life in Korea. They will be extremely concerned for your wellbeing and try to find someone for you. And you will be asked by EVERYONE within the first five minutes of a conversation (on average) whether or not you have a significant other. 2) The dating world is rather dismal in Korea (once again if you're female). I wish I had known these two pieces of information before coming to Korea. I would have created an imaginary African boyfriend which would have served a dual purpose: relieving me of the hassle of constantly being asked if  I've "made a new boyfriend" (as if you can just mix the right ingredients and make them), and providing another way educate about race.

-Whether or not kimchi cures and prevents all illness is still to be decided in my opinion, but what I do know is that I can't survive without the spicy, crunchy, flavorful, deliciousness that is kimchi. I'm a little concerned about my wellbeing when I return to the non-kimchi eating world.

-I didn't realize that loving a country's food would be such a way to successfully integrate myself into a new culture. By loving Korean food "I am Korean", according to my Korean friends that is.

-Just like I've always said, it is totally possible and easy to find amazing, kind, and wonderful people in every corner of the globe. I am overwhelmingly grateful for my friends here.

-The Korean language is not as difficult as it might appear. Saying just one word in Korean (assuming you don't look Asian) will result in Korean exclamations of pride and joy and unfortunately the assumption that because you speak one word of Korean you must be fluent.

-Surviving in a country where you only speak a few words of the language (okay I guess I speak and understand more than that now) and initially couldn't read the language is actually easier than it might seem. Having white skin and top notch miming skills assist in survival.

-Not all Asians look a like. Even though some Koreans assume that someone with "Asian" features can and should speak Korean. I liken distinguishing between the different Asian nationalities as distinguishing between the different European nationalities. It is totally possible to identify the difference between a German and an Italian, but often the distinctions are blurred. I think perhaps as an American I have a harder time differentiating because almost every person in my country is a "mutt" of some sort. I never thought about whether or not I looked "German" even though I have German blood until I came to Korea. I have had multiple people tell me I look German and ask me "what I am". I always respond "American". I guess race and nationality are defined a bit differently in a country where 99% of the population is full blooded Korean. I've never really thought about my race until coming to Korea.

-Racial stereotypes are a result of past bad experiences, education, and simply whether or not you've been exposed to someone "different". Funny that I had to travel all the way to Korea to have my first experience with racism. I am grateful that I grew up "colorblind".

-In Korea it is very simple to cook, realize you are missing an ingredient, throw on your shoes, walk to the store and return less than ten minutes later with the missing ingredient. I am beginning to take this convenience for granted.

-It is not uncommon to see couples wearing matching outfits here. I'm not a fan. Reason number 492 why it's unlikely I will date a Korean.

Not an uncommon sight. 
-I probably see more passed out drunk people on an average week than I did in college. And these sightings are usually around 9 pm and are of middle aged smartly dressed Korean businessmen. Yes there is a huge drinking culture here. I attribute it partially to the fact that Koreans work the most hours of any country in the world. The average Korean adult consumes 81 bottles of soju per year.

-The Seoul subway system is almost ALWAYS crowded anytime of day or night.

-Eating out is CHEAP, delicious, filling, and healthy. Even better the food comes super fast.

-I miss being a student even more than I thought I would after graduation. This longing has driven me to devour books faster than I can get my hands on them, study Korean, and spend hours reading about random subjects that interest me. I need to go back to school.

Here's what I'm looking forward to and planning for the next six months:

-Trips to the Philippines and Bali, Indonesia!!!

-A Buddhist temple stay

-Barbequing on one of the many islands just off the coast of Incheon. Please come fast warm weather!

-Teaching 1st and 2nd graders with no knowledge of English by myself.

-Experimenting with cooking some Korean foods.

-Remembering to treasure the good moments of everyday!

Here are some of my favorite pictures of the first half of my year in Korea: 


Gangwha Island with my friend Shea. Jan. 2011
View from my apartment. 
After a race at the Olympic stadium in Seoul. Feb. 2011
Oh Korean hikers and their kimbap! Jeju Island-Hallasan Nov 2010
Jeju Island. Nov 2010
Korean exercise equipment. 
Busan fireworks! Oct 2010
Halloween: Juno and Bleeker. 
Korean wedding with a friend. Sep 2010
View from the roof of my apartment at night. 
Seoraksan national park. Sept 2010

Thursday, March 3, 2011

Feeling Love from Across the Globe

What's the best part about living halfway across the world (in relation to my country of birth that is)? Getting two days of birthday wishes!

Yesterday (my birthday in Korea), I was greeted with a influx of facebook and e-mail birthday wishes from my friends in Korea. Today, my inbox was flooded with well wishers in North America, Europe, and Africa. I definitely did not feel any shortage of love for my 23rd birthday! Thank you all for inspiring me, supporting me, laughing with me, loving me, and just simply being amazing people! I am so blessed to have met so many incredible people every place I've been and lived.

Yesterday, I was surprised by a knock at my door around dinner time. I assumed it was a friend delivering me my promised ice cream cake, but instead I was greeted by a group of my friends bearing food, gifts, and drinks! Naturally, we had to set up shop in my messy apartment (give me a break--I did just return from Japan), and I was dressed in sweats but it was lovely to be surprised and treated! Thank you Korea friends! If nothing else, coming to Korea has given me the opportunity to meet amazing people who I've grown so close to in just short six months.

While being far away from the people that are dear to me isn't always ideal, it is certainly a good feeling to receive heartfelt birthday wishes from around the globe for two straight days! Today a friend from the States asked me: when are you returning home? Ha! If only I knew where home is. Ultimately "home" is not a location for me, but a feeling that is generated by the people I'm surrounded. My favorite dictionary definitions of the word home describe this best:
1. any place of residence or refuge
2. the place in which one's domestic affections are centered.
3. (perhaps taken out of context a bit) deep; to the heart.
If I use these definitions I think I have many "homes" around the world. Thank you all for being home to me! I hope I can reciprocate the love that you all have showed me!

 Map of my facebook friends. Love you all!
I will post pictures and write about Japan shortly. I need to gather my thoughts and get my life in order now that the new semester has started and I'm "busy" teaching. Plus marathon day is a mere 2.5 weeks away! Yikes!

Wednesday, February 16, 2011

Positive thoughts on Korea/saving some of the e-mails I sent out

Mass e-mail sent out to friends and family a while ago (unedited). I'm trying to preserve some of these e-mails before they all get deleted. 


As I feel I may have come across as too negative in my last e-mail I want send some positive things about Korea your way. First, I don't retract any of my statements in the last e-mail. My frustrations and observations are not uncommon among foreigners and Koreans alike. And I don't believe any of my informations and observations are faulty. In fact I recall having coffee with my well traveled 6th grade co-teacher after being in Korea for two months and she told me flat out that Koreans are racist. I was shocked and horrified at the time until a month or so later when I began to notice this. She mentioned the lack of creativity and critical thinking in Korean education and her frustration with it. Unfortunately much of this pressure to do well on tests can be traced back and connected to the No Child Left Behind act in the states. The States is much like a role model in many ways for how things are done in Korea (to my displeasure). So a few years ago the Korean president decided to create a smiliar law in Korea that based school funding on the performance of students. Just like in the States this law zapped any flexibility for teachers to let students be creative and explore their interests. Teachers suddenly felt extreme pressure to have their students perform well on the tests (that are conducted at the SAME time in all of Korea for each grade level). Their students' performance determined funding for the school and also job security for the teachers. All so sad! While I was critical of Korea's lack of creativity in school the same thing is beginning to happen in the States. I know many schools in California (and I believe elsewhere) are cutting art programs and things that are considered to be nonessential. I've come to the conclusion that every education system is faulty in some way so I think we should take advantage of globalization and begin to learn from each country's strengths and weaknesses. 

Education is what got Korea where it is today. 60 years ago Korea's GDP was the same as Pakistans and yet today Korea's GDP is in the top twenty in the world. What is the biggest difference between these two countries? Korea recognized that they lacked natural resources so instead chose to invest in their people. Some recent statistics on Pakistan: Male (15-24) literacy rate: 80%, Female (15-24) literacy rate: 60% (taken from UNICEF), overall rate (all ages): 54%. Korea's literacy rate: 99%!!! One of my favorite quotes is from Nelson Mandela: Education is the most powerful weapon which you can use to change the world.

This quote sums up why I enjoy teaching and what I ultimately think will start to bring about change in the world. I encourage everyone to read Three Cups of Tea (about a man who began starting schools in rural Pakistan). In the book it brings up some interesting conclusions about terrorism and education and how with proper education (not the oil lord funded madrassa schools that teach radical Muslim ideas and that are widespread in much of the middle east). This is a bit off the original topic but I think that education is what brought Korea to where it is today and improved education is what will change Korea. Recently on CNN there was a story about a man (a mixed race Korean) who started a "rainbow" school, a school where children of mixed races could learn and feel comfortable, because unfortunately in normal Korean schools they are often made fun of since Korea is incredibly racially homogeneous. Google the article. It was an excellent and inspirng story. 

As for the obsession with appearance--I think this is a problem worldwide but Korea takes a different approach. Here is an interesting article on this topic:  http://thegrandnarrative.com/2009/05/08/korean-women-are-not-alphabets/

I use the word blessed a lot but it's the best word in the English language to describe how I feel about this experience and the opportunities I've had so far. While I'm not exactly overjoyed to be living in this cold weather right now and there are many things I find frustrating, Koreans are definitely the hardest working people I've ever met, most generous, and by far the most honest (probably why this country has virtually no crime). I'll leave you with some quotes from my students today while we learned about Europe (they made my day):
"Goodbye Teacher! Ahhhh! I don't want to go home! I want to study more!" He was so excited about what we learned today :) 
After teaching my 6th graders about wind turbines in Denmark: "Teacher! You so smart! Engineer!!!!" haha! Sometimes the amount of reverence I get is a little scary. 
"Teacher you are world traveler!!" (I want to be!)
My 6th graders are brimming with enthusiasm about traveling and the world. It's so exciting to share some of my passion about traveling with them. If all Korean students can catch the travel bug and bring this back to their home country I think everything will change!

Hope this e-mail corrected any negative thoughts anyone was having about Korea. Every place in the world comes with its good and bad. If we were all the same, the world would be an extremely boring place. Traveling teaches you to more closely examine your own country for its strengths and weaknesses and tests your ability to adapt to and understand a different way of life. 

Thursday, July 30, 2009

Summing it all up

So I'm now sitting in the apartment all alone. Everyone has left except for me so its given me some time to think about everything up to date. First the usual updates:

Two weekends ago I was in Switzerland visiting Jackie from valpo. I met her in Bern and we walked around the city a bit (it was raining for most of the day) and then went to a soccer game which was pretty exciting. Fans get way more into soccer over here so it was fun to be in the midst of the action. We weren't able to get a hostel or hotel for the night so we just went back to Villagen (where she is doing research for the summer) and I stayed in her room. On Sunday we went to see Roman ruins and also Basel (which is half in Germany so I could use my rail pass). Basel was a really pretty city along the Rhein. It was interesting being in Switzerland because I could understand almost nothing of what people were saying the German is so different there. Luckily, if I spoke Hochdeutsch (or standard German) they would understand and then speak so that I could understand also.

During the week I was very busy working on my final presentation and analyzing my data. On Friday I gave my final presentation to our PhD. advisors in FZD as well as Prof. Winner who is chair of the department. My presentation went very well and they through us a barbeque afterwards as well as taking us out to the Ratskeller.

On Saturday Darcy and I left for Berlin and Leipzig along the way. Leipzig is a decent sized university town where some very large rallies were held during the time of the Soviet Union and the wall. These rallies contributed signigicantly to the eventual collapse of the wall. We went to an interesting free museum that documented some of this. After Leipzig we hopped back on the train to Berlin to catch a free tour of the city. It wasn't quite as good as the free tour we took in Prague but it was a good way to see most of the highlights of the city without paying a lot of money to get in. After the free tour we climbed to the top of the Reichstag (the German Parliment building) and got a beautiful view of the city at dusk. Berlin is an awesome city! It is super artsy and international and very unique. I won't detail everything we did on Sunday but we went to a bunch of museums/memorials that were free and a GIANT flea market where we found vegan burgers then we went to the Jewish Museum and the area of Berlin where most of the immigrants live so there was awesome food there. We went to a Moroccan restaurant which was delicious!!

On Monday morning I went separate on the way back to Potsdam, a city near Berlin that has a beautiful palace and gardens. I did a lot of walking then I hopped back on a train to use the last day of my German rail pass and finish my final paper for the summer. Tuesday and Wednesday were a mad rush to get everything finished. On Tuesday my advisor, Fabian, took us to a go-kart place in Mainz which was a blast. Go-karting in Germany is WAY more fun and of course the cars are much faster! On Wednesday we had to give our presentation AGAIN to the Virginia Tech group then we all went out for cocktails with our incredibly awesome German teacher! Wednesday was very hard for me because I had to say all my goodbyes to wonderful people we have had the opportunity to work with this summer. They all welcomed us to come and stay with them if we ever come back but it's so sad to leave. I feel so blessed to have been able to work in the department that I did because all of our advisors went out of their way to welcome us and give us a good experience. I am sooooooooo sad to leave!!!!

This morning I finished up my paper then walked around Darmstadt for a bit and did some shopping. I felt a little better after this and I started getting excited for my next set of adventures. On Saturday I leave for Sweden to visit some friends from our church, I will be there for about 4 days then I take a train to Copenhagen, Denmark where I will stay for two days, then I fly to Nice, France to chill on the mediteranean coast for two and half days, then another train to Milan, Italy for two days then back to Darmstadt for three days. I basically went online and figured out the cheapest places I could go and just started buying tickets. My total travel costs are only a little over $100 (not Euros!)! I have been contacting locals through couch surfing so hopefully I will have to pay very little for housing as well!

All in all this has been an incredible summer. I have learned so much about the world (maybe not so much related to engineering) and I have been able to see so much. I am so, so sad to go back. For the first time (and I really mean it this time) I feel like I have found a home and a place I fit in. I am going to come back to Germany for sure next summer and maybe this will eventually become a permanent home where I will actually settle down after I do all the others things I want to do in life. I don't know what my internet access will be like the next couple of weeks so this might be last post but I will see most of you within the next month likely!

To sum everything up to date I have been to these cities so far this summer: Germany: Darmstadt, Frankfurt, Heidelberg, München, Nürnberg, Köln, Bacharach, Oberwesel, Sankt Goar, Bonn, Ulm, Stuttgart, Leipzig, Berlin, Potsdam; Netherlands: Rotterdam, Delft, Den Haag; Czech Republic: Prague; Spain: Madrid, Cerdecilla, Segovia; Austria: Salzburg; Switzerland: Bern, Brugge, Villagen, Rheinfeld, Basel; and next to come: Götheberg, Sweden, Copenhagen, Denmark, Nice, France, and Milan, Italy.